A return to where it all started

Views from Namsan

Waiting to board the plane for my first trip back to Korea in 17 years, the place where I started my life abroad, I was eager to see how much the place had changed during my absence. I knew that physically the city would look different, but what about the attitudes of the locals? I remember a fair bit of hostility directed toward foreigners while I was living there. But I wonder, was it them, or me?

Gyeongbokgung Palace

When I moved to Korea, I still very much had a Western mindset. I didn’t understand why things were done the way they were done in Korea and I was a pretty harsh judge. I asked a very stupid question on many occasions. The stupid question in question? Why? After years of living in Asia, I have removed that word from my vocabulary when wondering why something is done. You will never get a satisfactory answer to that question, so I just stopped asking.

Various spots along the Han River

So, how much has Seoul changed physically and socially? Vastly. While there were always high-rise buildings scattered about the city, they have now popped up like mushrooms all over the city. Everywhere you look, there are high-rise apartment buildings in every nook and cranny of the city. Lots of the dreadfully drab, post-war cement buildings have been replaced with sparkling, glass, and LED-covered towers. Many of the elevated expressways that clogged up main arteries through the city have been torn down and replaced with trees, and even some green spaces. Seoul is still a concrete jungle, but there is a bit of relief here and there.

King Sejong

Physical changes are easy to spot. What about interacting with the locals? Well, I must say, things have improved. 17 years ago, getting on and off a train was a knife fight. There was pushing, shoving, and elbows thrown around. Pity the man or woman who got in the way of an ajuma in a rush. Your ribs or belly would be eating a well-placed elbow or two. Ajumas have razor-sharp elbows and they know how to use them. These days, most people actually wait for people to get off the train before they get on. That is a huge improvement in my book. When you have to use the subway system every day, those little annoyances start to add up. Speaking of the metro system, after living in Japan for years, I now appreciate how easy to navigate the Seoul Metro is. Signs are clear and in multiple languages. Another bonus is how ridiculously cheap public transportation is in Seoul. I bought a rechargeable metro card for 4000 Won, about $4, and loaded the card up with 30,000 Won and still had money left on the card when I left even after using the subway to go all over the city and even down to Suwon.

Cheonggyecheon

Seoul has always prided itself on being a technological hub. Seoulites have always been early adopters of technology, and I can easily see them being the first to go completely digital in all aspects of life, for better or worse. If you don’t have a credit card to pay for almost everything, life can be a bit difficult. Of course, all of the giant corporate businesses want you to pay with a card, but even small businesses prefer plastic over paper. Small hole-in-the-wall coffee shops want plastic. Many of the tourist attractions want you to pay with plastic. There are ticket machines for attractions that do not accept cash. So as a person who prefers to pay in cash, I don’t like all of this digital payment stuff. It’s quite a change from the days when I used to work in Seoul. Every payday, our boss would come into our office and hand out fat envelopes stuffed with 10,000 Won notes. That was the biggest note at the time. The 50,000 Won note came into circulation in 2009.

Four days aren’t enough time to notice all of the changes, but they were enough to see that the city has drastically changed in 17 years. When I left the country the last time, I couldn’t wait to get on the plane out there. Now, I will happily return for another short visit to Seoul and I would also like to explore more of the country as well.

Oh, I suppose I must mention the food. It is still damn spicy, but wow, has it gotten expensive. Expect to pay 9000 for even the most basic of dishes. Sheesh.