Technically, this should be my team. The Marines home stadium is located in Chiba. It’s about 45 minutes from the station closest to my home. However, I went to a Yakult Swallows game first, so by default, the Swallows are my team. I am a contrarian by nature, so it’s probably not surprising that the local team is not my team.
The Marines do have a lot going for them though. The stadium, though modeled after the cookie-cutter type stadiums like old Three Rivers Stadium in Pittsburgh, Veterans Stadium in Philadelphia, and Riverfront Stadium in Cincinnati, is a nice place to watch a game. The pregame atmosphere is excellent and the stadium is fairly easy to get to.
One of the more interesting tidbits of Lotte Marines lore is that Bobby Valentine was once the manager of the team. Yes, that Bobby Valentine. He is a regular folk hero for the fans of the Marines. He guided the team to the Japan Series Championship back in 2005. I think Bobby could run for Mayor of Chiba and win handily. I have talked to a couple of Japanese people here who met Bobby Valentine and they all say what a nice man he is. There ya go, Bobby V, if you ever want to get into politics, I think Chiba is a great place to start.
location
Zozo Marine Stadium is not actually in Chiba City but in nearby Makuhari. The whole area is inundated with shopping malls, upscale hotels, an enormous exhibition hall, and parks along Tokyo Bay. Everything is new and shiny. The stadium is literally meters from the water so if you go to a game in the spring or early summer bring a jacket. The icy wind off the bay can be like knives if you don’t prepare properly. And how are you going to drink beer if you are freezing?
access
Getting to the stadium is quite painless. The most convenient way for me to get to the stadium is to go to Keisei Makuharihongo station and then hop on the free bus that goes directly to the stadium. The free bus makes the reverse route after the game, but hurry as there are not many buses and they stop running not long after the game is over. There is another way to get to the stadium, but it involves a couple of transfers and I always seem to get lost using this route. Both Nishi-Funabashi and Minami-Funabashi Station are confusing stations with multiple platforms servicing trains from different train companies going in a multitude of directions. I don’t believe I have ever successfully managed this route without getting turned around at least once. This route will take you to Kaihimmakuhari Station which is a 1 KM walk along wide and easily navigable sidewalks.
If you are in Tokyo and want to catch a game in Chiba, the best route is to take the JR Wakashio 9 Limited Express. It will get you from Tokyo Station to Kaihimmakuhari station in 38 minutes.
atmosphere and game day experience
I think of all of the stadiums I have visited, Zozo Marine Stadium has the best pregame atmosphere. Since the area is quite new there is a lot of room for the stadium and its grounds. The spacious area around the stadium is filled with mobile food and drink carts and tables. There is a wide variety of food available. A couple of years ago I surprised some of the ladies at the Thai food stand with some of my atrocious Thai language skills. So before you even step in the stadium, you can get loaded on food and beer.
I would venture to say that Chiba Lotte Marines fans are more on the blue-collar side. I have no facts to back this up, but the crowd feels more Philly than say, LA or Dallas. Now, I’m not saying there is anything wrong with the blue-collar crowd. Just be prepared for a bit of rude behavior. Of course, Philly rude and Chiba rude are not even in the same galaxy. If you are an American visiting for the day you will probably think I’m crazy, but after being here for some time, you know what constitutes rude behavior in polite Japan.
The fans are passionate though, I will give them that. The Oendan is boisterous and energetic. When the game is tight or there is a big at-bat coming up, the crowd does this cheer where every other person bends down and the person next to them stands up. You can see this sea of humanity bouncing up and down like waves on a frenetic sea.
The Marines may also have one of the strangest mascots in all of mascotry. Just watch the video, I have no words to describe what is going on there.
stadium quality
While the stadium will not win any awards for creativity, it is a good place to watch a game, and in the grand scheme of things, I suppose that is all that matters. I have sat in various locations and all of them provided an obstruction-free view of the game. Here is some local knowledge that may save your skin, literally. If you go to a game during the afternoon, get seats on the first base side of the stadium. That side of the stadium is in the shade whereas the third base side is blasted with the scorching summer sun all game long. You are welcome.
The stadium was opened in 1990 but still feels quite new. The concession stands are easy to get to and the toilets are plentiful. Important items when you are watching a sport that requires drinking. To quote the distinguished philosopher Homer, “I never realized how boring this game is without beer.” Amen, Homer, Amen.
I can heartily recommend catching a game at Zozo Marine Stadium. Make sure you arrive early to take advantage of the pregame spread and take a walk along the beach. There is a jetty that runs a good hundred meters or so out into Tokyo Bay where you can get a good look at Tokyo in the distance.
Rolling Tsuchinoko 